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One government over whom they have the most influence are the UK who for twenty years have been cheer leaders for the Aliyev regime.

What will be on Azerbaijan's shopping list at the arms fair?

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I haven’t been in a really exotic place since India (see my trip to India! And here, not only was everything unfamiliar, it was vaguely unidentifiable: Azerbaijan is part European, part Asian; part Russian, part Mongol; part miniskirt, part headscarf; part blood feud, part Microsoft.

“All of this is influenced by the Muslims who got it from the Russians,” Yaakobi continues.

Although this particular grave is among the more ostentatious in the three cemeteries of Krasnaya Sloboda, an all-Jewish town in the mountainous north of Azerbaijan, it is surrounded by hundreds of others showing lifelike pictures of the dead in various poses, sometimes bordering on the absurd. I know the story of each one of them,” Yaakobi laments as he strolls past a large tombstone depicting a middle aged man in a business suit reclining in a throne-like chair.

A cemetery holds the black tombstones of soldiers killed by Armenia in the Nagorno-Karabach conflict in the early 1990s; down its center, a 25-foot wide walkway is lined with memorials to the Turkish soldiers who defended Baku from the British in World War I; and at the end of this walkway, granite engravings show the faces of civilians who were killed by the Red Army’s desperate invasion on January 20, 1990.

So there you have it: the enemy, the friend, the occupier.

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